Emilee's 3 Keys to Starting Seeds Successfully
One of my gardening goals I’ve been looking forward to in 2026 is starting more of my plants from seed. Maybe it’s the spring fever talking, but now that it’s March, I feel like the sky is the limit and the world is my seed tray!
This is an especially good time to start seeds because we’re about six weeks away from North Carolina’s average last frost date. Seeds started now—with good germination and a healthy growth rate—should be ready to transplant directly into the garden. Plus, starting seeds can save cash on the veggies, annuals, and perennials you love and would likely have bought anyway.
Of course, starting your own seeds takes a little patience, time, and TLC. Knowing good seed propagation practices—and a couple of helpful tips and tricks—can really improve your success and may even give you an abundance of new plants to enjoy and share with friends.
Let’s begin with the major components you must provide to get seeds to grow—then we’ll add a few tips and tricks to make it even easier to get great results.
Key #1: Moisture
I recently shared my excitement about starting lots of seeds this spring with my friend Alison Northup. She is the owner of Piedmont Plants Nursery, a new premier nursery specializing strictly in native plants. The vast majority of her plants are grown from seed sourced locally and often collected by Alison herself.
When I asked what she considers the key to successful seed starting, she said, “Keeping them moist—consistently moist—is the most important thing throughout the germination process and as the seedlings begin to emerge.”
Then, Alison explained, you can actually watch the seeds expand and see how healthy they are as they begin to shine and burst with life. Definitely something I want to see!
However, she also offered a word of caution: if you’re providing consistent moisture, you also need airflow. Without it, the soil and seedlings can develop mold.
Tip #1: Alison starts many of her seeds in aluminum baking tins with clear plastic tops. She pokes holes in the bottom for drainage and punches about four holes in the plastic covers to allow airflow. This helps prevent mold growth while keeping seedlings consistently moist and healthy.
Key #2: Soil
A quick note about soil: seeds don’t actually need soil to germinate. There are several easy and effective methods for germinating seeds without traditional soil media. However, once seeds have sprouted, you’ll want to transfer the tender seedlings into soil to encourage healthy root and shoot development.
A good seed-starting mix is lightweight and often composed of peat moss along with vermiculite and/or perlite to maximize pore space and water-holding capacity. Generally, avoid heavy clay soils or mixes with large particles of bark, rock, or wood chips. The soil should retain moisture but allow excess water to drain away.
Soil temperature is also crucial because it’s one of the major signals that tells a seed to begin germinating. In nature, seeds reach their optimal soil temperature as days become longer and nights stop dropping below freezing. This signals the seed to swell and shed its protective seed coat.
To mimic these conditions indoors, a heating pad placed beneath your seed tray can be helpful. There are many seed-starting heating pads available, but the main thing to look for is one calibrated to maintain the optimal temperature for the seeds you’ve planted.
Tip #2: An old-school trick gardeners often use is placing seed trays on top of the refrigerator. The refrigerator’s compressor releases heat from the top as it cools the interior, creating a useful makeshift “heating pad.” Just remember—you’ll only fit about two seed trays up there at a time!
Key #3: Light
A surprising fact about seeds is that they generally do not need light to germinate. All they typically require is warmth and moisture. However, once they germinate, light quickly becomes critical.
The general rule for seed planting depth is surprisingly shallow: a seed should be planted only about twice as deep as its own width or diameter. After germinating, the seedling naturally grows toward light so it can begin producing chlorophyll and generating energy. If a seed is planted too deeply, it may rot before it can reach the light.
When starting seeds indoors, you may choose to grow them in a bright south-facing window—but keep them out of direct sunlight, since intense light through glass can sometimes burn delicate seedlings.
Artificial grow lights are another excellent option, especially if you don’t have enough natural light or window space. Grow lights should mimic the full spectrum of light plants receive from the sun.
The Oklahoma State Extension notes:
“Fluorescent lighting is a much better choice for lighting seedlings because it emits light in the blue to blue-green part of the spectrum. In addition, it puts out little heat, so there’s less chance of burning the plants. Keep in mind, however, that plants need light in both areas of the spectrum in order to grow well, so choosing a combination of cool-white and warm-white fluorescent bulbs is a must.”
When using artificial lights, suspend them only 2–3 inches above the seed trays and leave them on for up to 16 hours per day. Lights placed too far away can cause seedlings to grow weak and spindly. Similarly, seedlings growing in dim or one-directional window light can become leggy.
Tip #3: When growing seedlings in a window, rotate your seed tray daily so all sides of the plants receive equal light and grow straight instead of leaning toward the light source.
Another important factor to consider is where your seeds came from.
If you purchase seeds from a reputable source, they have usually already been prepared for planting. However, if you collect seeds yourself—from your garden or locally—you may need to provide a winter dormancy period called cold stratification to encourage reliable germination.
To simulate this natural process, place the seeds in a container or plastic bag with a moist paper towel. Look up the cold stratification requirement for your specific seeds and store them in the refrigerator for the recommended time (usually between 30 and 90 days). After that period, the seeds can be planted or prepared for germination.
Once your seedlings have grown 1–2 sets of true leaves and are about three inches tall, it’s time to harden them off so they can live outdoors full time.
Set the seedling tray outside for 2–3 hours at a time on mild spring days. This gradual exposure helps the seedlings adjust to wind, sunlight, and temperature fluctuations.
Continue this process for 1–2 weeks. Once they’ve adjusted, your seedlings will be ready to move out into the garden permanently.
Understanding the how and why behind seed germination can make a huge difference in your success.
Now that my seeds are cold stratified and my trays are set up, I’m itching to dive in and grow some plants!
Tell me about your tips and tricks—have you discovered something that leads to great germination or seedling growth? Drop your best ideas in the comments. I’m always open to trying new things!